Tobak's Great Wine for Techies
The following story is a reprint from our January issue. Watch for a new installment of Tobak's Great Wine for Techies in our next issue.
One day I got to thinking, why is it that folks are always asking me to recommend wines and wineries to them and asking me stuff like, “what was that Chardonnay we had the other night?” after a business dinner? Well, I know that wine is hot, that Silicon Valley is close to the wine country, and that lots of folks want to be at least knowledgeable enough to order wine at a dinner meeting or a dinner party. I also know that wine is pretty complicated stuff for beginners, and that most folks don’t even know where to start.
So, whether you’re into wine and are looking for some excellent recommendations or you’re a beginner looking for a place to start, welcome to my column. My focus is to boil things down for you and try to simplify a very complex subject. So don’t expect to get every last detail, just what I think are the most important things to know to help you to be somewhat conversant and capable of ordering and buying some really great wine at reasonable prices. And just like in my consulting business, I share your perspective, being one of you – a techie, as opposed to one of them – a wine industry person. So what qualifies me to write this column? Well, I just happen to have a wife who studied culinary arts and turned me on to the wonderful world of wine. After that, it just bit me like a bug. Now I just do what I love to do, collect and drink great wine. I hope my passion with wine helps to enrich your life, but most importantly, remember to have fun with it. And, of course, let me know what you think. I’d love to hear what you like and what you’d like to see in the future and we’ll see where this thing goes. So, let’s get started.
Making Sense out of Wine Naming Conventions
One of the great mysteries of wine – adding to the overall complexity of the genre – is the lack of a worldwide naming convention. It’s bad enough that French, Italian and English are different languages, but these three major wine-producing nations don’t even name their wines the same way. We’ll start with a quick overview that will hopefully simplify the whole mess and at least help you begin to make sense of it all. Then we’ll discuss the relation between the names of wines made in France and those made in the US. We’ll get to Italy next month.
Okay, first let’s split the wine world in half; there are old world wines and new world wines. Old world wines include those made in Europe, while new world wines include those produced in the US, Australia and South America. Now, this is important. In general, old world wines are named after places – like wine growing regions – and new world wines are named after grape varietals – like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. For example, French Burgundy wines are typically only made from two grapes: the whites are primarily Chardonnay and the reds are made from Pinot Noir grapes. Very simple. You can travel through the entire Burgundy region of France and those are pretty much the only two varietals the wineries make. But the one thing you’ll almost never find on a bottle of old world wine is the name of the grape. What you will find – in Burgundy for example – is the actual appellation or place where the wine is grown, such as Nuits-St-Georges or Morey-St-Denise. So if you buy an American Pinot Noir, it’s the same grape as a red Burgundy. Same goes for Chardonnay and white Burgundy. Different styles, perhaps, but the same grape.
Now to finish off the grapes of France so you can relate them to their new world or US counterparts: Bordeaux are the most widely produced wines in the world. Red Bordeaux wines are primarily made of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes, and to a lesser extent Malbec and Petit Verdot. White Bordeaux wines are principally made of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. So if you grow up in Burgundy, you’re not really exposed to Cabernet Sauvignon, and if you grow up in Bordeaux, there’s little Chardonnay to be found. Much different than in the US.
In the vast Rhone region of France, where blending of grapes is the rule, many different grapes are used. Red Rhone wines are principally made of Grenache, Syrah ( sometimes called Shiraz, especially in Australia), Mourvedre and Cinsaut, although at least eight other varietals may be used in small amounts. The Rhone whites are typically made of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. The Alsace region – where white wines are predominant – uses Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris (also called Pinot Grigio in Italy) and Pinot Blanc grapes. Alsace’s only major red grape is Pinot Noir, which is used primarily in Rosé wines. In addition to the grape varietals already mentioned, Gamay and Chenin Blanc are used along with Sauvignon Blanc extensively in the Loire Valley, a kind of melting pot, like California.
Focus on American Whites
Red wine bigots, listen up. White wine goes better with lots of foods, is cooler in the summer, and – for the most part – does as much good for your heart as red wine. In fact, a business associate who grew up in a town in Bordeaux told me they typically ate heavier foods and drank red wines in the cold months, consuming lighter foods and chilled whites and Rosés in the summer months. So try to open up your mind to something new and, the next time you’re eating fish, chicken, spicy Asian cuisine, salad, vegetarian food, or pasta in a light sauce, go white. There is such a thing as certain wines pairing well with certain foods. After all, you wouldn’t drink a coke with a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, would you?
Here’s a brief overview of whites you’re likely to see in the US:
Chardonnay: the king of white wines. Robust, long-lived, fruity and versatile. Pair with shellfish, fish steaks and white meats or pastas in white sauces, or drink alone. Can benefit from 2 – 3 years aging and some can last much longer.
Fine examples: Kistler makes the best (but expensive and hard to find), Ridge (see winery focus below), Newton unfiltered, Saintsbury, Au Bon Climat, Merryvale, Matanzas Creek, Ferrari-Carano.
Sauvignon Blanc: sharp and citrusy, drink young or age 4 or 5 years (I know it sounds strange, but it works). Drink with light appetizers, seafood, cheese.
Fine examples: Matanzas Creek, Rochioli, Simi Sendal (blend with Semillon), Flora Springs Soliloquy.
Pinot Gris or Grigio: rich, mineraly and acidic. Drink with pasta, pizza, pork.
Fine examples: Etude Pinot Gris, Archery Summit Vireton (Pinot Gris blend). Lots of good Pinot Gris’ come from Oregon.
Pinot Blanc or Chenin Blanc: Light and versatile, a good alternative to Chardonnay. Drink with salads, light vegetarian, fish, or pasta dishes.
Fine examples: Chalone Pinot Blanc and Chenin Blanc, Qupe Pinot Blanc / Pinot Gris blend.
Gewurztraminer or Riesling: even the dry ones are a little on the sweet side and Gewurzt is also spicy. Pairs great with spicy Asian food or drink Riesling as an aperitif.
Fine examples: Lazy Creek makes the best Gewurztraminer, also Navarro Gewurzt and Rieslings, Bonny Doon Rieslings. The best examples come from the Anderson Valley.
Vionier, Marsannne or Rousanne: great alternative to chardonnay. The best examples are rich and floral. Drink young, as an aperitif or with light French food.
Fine examples: Calera makes the best Viognier, also Treanna white (it’s a blend), Jade Mountain Viognier, Qupe makes a good Marsanne blend.
Tobak’s Monthly Picks
Wines (all US reds, this time)
Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. A great, classic cab from the Alexander Valley. There are awesome bargains available on both the ’99 and ’98 vintages. They list at $70, but you can find them as low as the upper $30s, if you know where to look. If you want to pay a little less, try Stonestreet’s Cab in the $20s.
Matanzas Creek Merlot. Perennially one of the best Merlots around, available in the mid-$20s.
Archery Summit Pinot Noir – Premier Cuvee. One of Oregon’s premier pinot houses – all their pinots are great – but the Cuvee is also reasonably priced in the mid-$30s. Their estate wines are in the $60s and $70s if you really want to go for it. Also great but more reasonably priced, try Saintsbury’s Carneros Pinot, available in the $20s, or their Garnet Pinot – in the teens, or their awesome reserve in the upper $30s.
Jade Mountain Syrah. Hard to find but worth it and a great alternative to Cabs and Merlots. Buy the Napa version in the mid-$20s, the Paras Vineyard at twice the price, but worth it.
Winery
Ridge Winery, Cuptertino, California. Okay, here’s a quiz question: what was the first wine appellation in California? If you said Napa or Sonoma, you’d be wrong. The answer is the Santa Cruz Mountains. Guess those loggers had to drink something besides beer. Anyway, to those in the know, Ridge is one of the greatest wineries in California. Just as important, they make a lot of wine, so you can actually find it if you know where to look. And their prices are reasonable. They make arguably the finest Cabernet Sauvignon in California and certainly some of the best Zinfandels and Chardonnays, as well. They have an excellent website, two great wine clubs (check out the ATP club … very cool concept) and you can visit and taste their wines at either their Santa Cruz Mountains location off the 280 in Cupertino or at their beautiful knew tasting room in Healdsburg in Sonoma County. www.ridgewine.com
Merchant
K&L Wine Merchants . Absolutely the best place to buy great wines at the best prices on-line. Also, if it’s convenient, one of the more fun brick and mortar places to shop. The staff is actually knowledgeable and helpful. www.klwines.com
Resources
Clarke & Spurrier’s Fine Wine Guide – A Connoisseur’s Bible, Oz Clarke and Steven Spurrier, Harcourt Brace & Company, 1998. This wonderful book has been one of my primary resources since its printing in 1998. It’s a little dated, but as a starting point for someone who wants to drink only good wine and is willing to spend a little to do it, it will help you filter out 95% of the pack and just focus on the good stuff. The book’s relatively small and therefore usable, and it doesn’t try to rate every single wine / vintage ever made … only the good ones.
Wine-searcher.com. The best search engine for the best prices on hard-to-find wines.
Back to top |