Tobak's Great Wine for Techies
After I wrote the focus on new world Pinot Noirs in last month’s letter I discovered two significant omissions: Steele makes a couple of great Pinots from Carneros and Bien Nacido, the former is very good and low cost, and the latter is excellent and is priced accordingly, but I think the Carneros holds up quite well against more expensive rivals. In addition, I’ve discovered a relatively new winery, named Testarossa, which specializes in Chardonnays, Pinots and Syrahs that are second to none, so it’s this month’s featured winery, below.
This month we’re focusing on a craze that’s caught fire in California over the past decade, but goes back hundreds of years in France – Rhone wines, from the famous Rhone Valley in France. We’ll look at new and old world perspectives on this most unique style. Parlez vous Rhone? Well you should. We’ll also discuss the importance of specific vintages.
On a side note, please excuse my lack of accents on French vowels, or any other vowels, for that matter. It’s just too much of a pain. Guess you’ll have to learn to pronounce this stuff in a French class. Drink up!
Rhone Wines, from Chateauneuf-du-Pape to Bonny Doon
The Rhone Valley is a vast region that, you guessed it, follows the Rhone River and stretches from Cote-Rotie, near Lyon, in the North, to the edge of Provence, near Avignon, in the south. Wines of the northern Rhone tend to be made primarily of one wine variety; the reds are primarily Syrah and the whites, Viognier or Marsanne. The most famous appellation in the northern Rhone is called Hermitage, which has become synonymous with the Syrah varietal and is probably where this awesome noble wine was born. Other major northern appellations include Crozes-Hermitage, Cote-Rotie, Cornas and Condrieu.
In contrast to the north, appellations of the southern Rhone have notoriously perfected the art of blending, with up to five or six varietals used in some wines. I believe that 13 different wine varietals are used throughout the southern Rhone, but I don’t know if anyone has ever tried to blend all 13 in the same bottle! The most famous appellation of the southern Rhone is Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which I think means “house of the nine monks,” or something like that. Also in the south are Gigondas and Cotes du Rhone. The primary varietals used in southern Rhone wines are Grenache, one of the most widely planted red grapes in the world, which actually originated in Spain, where it is called Garnacha, Mourvedre, Syrah, Cinsaut, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. The strangest thing about the blending done in the Rhone is the use of a small amount of white wine, typically Viognier, in some red wine blends. Hey, it works.
Syrahs are world-class wines. They’re big, rich, complex and spicy. They’re also tannic and pretty long-lived. In fact, most Syrahs can use a few years of bottle aging. Think of Syrahs as Cabernet Sauvignons on steroids. I’m sure wine connoisseurs would have a problem with this analogy, but hey, it’s my column. Chateauneuf-du-Papes, on the other hand, are drinkable young and long-lived, an unusual combination. In fact, the best Chateauneuf-du-Papes can last for decades. These wines are typically Grenache-based, but Mourvedre, Syrah and other varietals are incorporated for added structure and tannins. These wines can be quite robust, complex and spicy. I had my first Chateauneuf-du-Pape, a ’94 Beaucastel, at a great restaurant in New Orleans called The Pelican Club, where I also met Michael “I’m Batman” Keaton. The stars aligned and I never looked back. In contrast, pure Grenaches, like those found in Gigondas, can be of light to medium body, spicy, and are quite versatile and food friendly.
Rhone whites are typically either Viognier or Marsanne, and both are robust, floral, fruity and can be extraordinary, especially the Viogniers. As an aperitif, I think it gives Chardonnay a run for its money, and it pares well with light French or California cuisine, like fish, chicken or some entrée salads.
There are probably hundreds of Rhone winemakers, but some of my favorites and the more reputable estates include:
- Chateau de Beaucastel (Chateauneuf-du-Pape, red and white)
- Ch. Rayas (Chateauneuf-du-Pape, red and white)
- Domain Jean-Louis Chave (Hermitage, red and white)
- Chapoutier (Hermitage Sizeranne, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Barb Rac)
- Paul Jaboulet (Hermitage)
- Also: August Clape, Clos des Papes, Ch. La Gardine, Dom. De la Janasse (CNP Cuvee Chaupin and Vieilles Vignes), Dom. De Marcoux (CNP), Ch. La Nerthe, Dom. Du Pagau, Dom. Du Vieux Telegraphe (CNP), among many others.
More than two decades ago, various California wine-makers began experimenting with Rhone varietals, and there is now a wide range of availability of reds, and some whites too, that offer excellent value when compared to the relatively high prices of Cabernets and Chardonnays. The wine-makers that started and propagated the trend are called The Rhone Rangers and, like Zinfandel, they have quite a following, which includes me. Some of the top Rhone-style wine makers in the US are:
- Bonny Doon, near Santa Cruz, makes a wide variety of Rhone-style wines and the wine maker, Randall Grahm, has been one of the main instigators of the US Rhone movement. He also makes the funniest wine labels on the planet; check out the label of their famous Chateauneuf-du-Pape style blend, Le Cigare Volant – and the wine’s pretty good, too.
- Jade Mountain, based in Napa, which is part of the Chalone Wine Group, makes some of the best Syrahs on this side of the Atlantic, as well as a number of excellent, yet reasonably priced, Chateauneuf-du-Pape style blends and a very good Viognier.
- Bob Lindquist, wine maker at Qupe, in the Santa Maria Valley, makes some incredible Syrahs, Chateauneuf-du-Pape style blends, not to mention a great Chardonnay and a few Rhone whites, as well.
- Unti, a small family-owned winery in Sonoma, makes some of the best Rhone-style wines around, including an awesome Syrah and a Petit Frere Syrah. And George is the nicest guy you’ll ever meet.
- Others include: Joseph Phelps (Syrah Vin Du Mistral), Testarossa (Syrah), Swanson (Alexis, Syrah), Treana (proprietary red/white blends) and Calera (the best Viognier).
Does Vintage Matter?
Yes. But when somebody tells you something like, “don’t buy any 1998 Cabs, they’re all crap, it was a bad year,” take it with a grain of salt. Sure, 1998 wasn’t the best year for Napa Cabs, but that doesn’t mean that some winemakers didn’t still come up with a great wine that year, or that is was bad for other regions too. Sometimes you get some really good deals, that way, if a year is tarnished. Conversely, when somebody says that 2001 and 2002 are the best years in decades for German Rieslings, it doesn’t mean they’re all great. On the other hand, if you’ve never tried German Rieslings before, now might be a good time to go out a try a few, if you think you might enjoy them. Moreover, the manufacturer and the quality of a specific vineyard or reserve bottling are much more important than the vintage year for an entire region.
The bottom line is that wine quality has become so good that most years are at least good years, these days. The effort to improve quality from vintage to vintage began in California, but the techniques used here are being adopted in France and Italy, as well. The 90s were a great decade for wine, worldwide, but I think that’s mostly because of quality improvements as opposed to luck with crops and the weather. At the end of the day, taste the wine or buy a bottle and taste it, and if you like it, buy more. In general, I wouldn’t worry too much about the vintage.
Tobak’s Monthly Picks
Wines (All Rhones, of course)
All the French Rhones named above are great and available, but most are expensive. Go for it, if you dare. Their American counterparts are more cost-effective:
- Bonnie Doon. Syrah, Old Telegram Mourvedre, Le Cigare Volante CNP blend, Viognier, Clos de Gilroy light Grenache are all good, all reasonably priced.
- Jade Mountain. Napa Valley Syrah is really good in the $20s, Paras Vineyard Syrah is great at almost twice the price, and Paras Vineyard Cask P-10 Syrah is top of the line. Also various CNP-style blends, Les Jumeaux, La Provencale and Mourvedre are good and sub-$20. Also good Viognier around $20.
- Qupe. Bien Nacido Reserve Syrah is awesome for $30s, non-reserve in the $20s. Also Los Olivos Cuvee blend and Marsanne are good.
- Unti. Hard to get, Sonoma County winery, but some of the best Rhone-style wines around at reasonable prices. Syrah, Syrah Petit Frere, Grenache and Grenache Rose, all priced in the $20s.
- Testarossa. Syrah is awesome, in the $30s.
- Swanson. Alexis, an innovative Cabernet Syrah blend, for around $45.
- Treana. A CNP-style proprietary red blend, in the $30s, and a Viognier Marsanne blend.
- Calera. The best Viognier in America - $32.
- Ferrari-Carano. Tremonte Syrah, if you can find it.
- Arrowood. Hard to get Viognier, $20 - $30.
- Acacia. New Viognier, low $20s.
Winery
Testarossa, Los Gatos, CA. Well, I’d seen these wines around and was curious, but I didn’t resolve that curiosity until proprietors Rob and Diana Jensen relocated their headquarters and tasting room to the historic Novitiate of Los Gatos, home of the ancient wine-making monks. I know, monks again. There must be a connection. Anyway, I guess the Jensen’s were Silicon Valley folks who, in 1993, followed their dream and Testarossa Vineyards was born. It’s a pretty common story these days, except for one big difference; these wines are awesome! Testarossa offers a number of vineyard designated Pinots, Chardonnays and one killer Syrah. The Syrah, Gary’s Vineyard Pinot Noir and Bien Nacido Charonnay were awesome and my favorites, but frankly, I loved all their wines and added them to the ever-growing list of winery clubs I can’t afford but belong to anyway. This is one winery to watch … closely. Visit them in Los Gatos and at www.testarossa.com.
Merchant
K&L Wine Merchants. Absolutely the best place to buy great wines at the best prices on-line. Also, if it’s convenient, one of the more fun brick and mortar places to shop in the Bay Area. The staff is actually knowledgeable and helpful. www.klwines.com
Resources
Clarke & Spurrier’s Fine Wine Guide – A Connoisseur’s Bible, Oz Clarke and Steven Spurrier, Harcourt Brace & Company, 1998. This wonderful book has been one of my primary resources since its printing in 1998. It’s a little dated, but as a starting point for someone who wants to drink only good wine and is willing to spend a little to do it, it will help you filter out 95% of the pack and just focus on the good stuff. The book’s relatively small and therefore usable, and it doesn’t try to rate every single wine / vintage ever made … only the good ones.
Winesearcher.com. The best search engine for the best prices on hard-to-find wines. www.wine-searcher.com.
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