Tobak's Great Wine for Techies
I’m truly amazed at how much this column is resonating with folks. People are passing it along to friends and associates interested in wine. I’d also like to extend an offer. Anybody with wine questions, just send me an email and I’ll do my best to answer them. I can be reached at stobak@invisor.net. As for this month’s column, we’re going to discuss one of my favorite topics: new world Pinot Noirs, and then I’ll give you the real lowdown on serving wine.
New World Pinot Noirs
Pinot Noir is called “the heartbreak grape” because it’s difficult to grow successfully, compared to other noble grape varietals. But folks in the Burgundy region of France managed to figure it out, and the Pinot Noir grape now accounts for virtually all of the red wine production of the second largest wine growing region in the world. And of course, the regal Pinot Noir grape represented quite a challenge to new world wine makers, who went for it in a big way. Today, Pinot Noir is among the top produced red wines in America, alongside Merlot, Zinfandel and of course, the market leader, Cabernet Sauvignon.
In addition to making wines of great distinction and finesse, Pinot Noir’s primary advantage is its food friendliness. Pinot Noirs are generally a bit lighter bodied than Cabernet Sauvignons, and therefore pair far better with California diets. If you’re out to dinner and folks are ordering anything from Salmon or Portobello mushrooms to chicken or pork, Pinot Noir’s a safe bet to blend nicely with everyone’s meal. There’s no other red grape I can think of with that distinction, and the only white that’s similarly versatile is Chardonnay. I guess the people of Burgundy really knew what they were doing when they planted primarily Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes.
In fact, the thin-skinned Pinot Noir grape is incredibly versatile, creating everything from light bodied wines that should be drunk young, to rich and complex wines that are quite age-worthy. The finest wine-growing regions in the United States are Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, the Carneros region just north of San Francisco, Central California’s Santa Maria Valley and Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
Why these particular regions? Pinots seem to thrive in cooler climates. Indeed, much of the great new world Pinots are grown in or near coastal regions. Although each of these regions contributes Pinot Noirs of great distinction, in general, I find the Oregon and Santa Maria varietals to be somewhat lighter and should be drunk younger than their Napa and Sonoma counterparts. Outside the US, New Zealand has also had good success with Pinot Noirs. Lastly, unlike their Bordeaux counterparts – like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – Pinot Noirs are rarely blended with other grape varietals.
Here are some of the leading producers of American Pinot Noirs:
Acacia, Carneros; Archery Summit, Williamette Valley; Au Bon Climat, Santa Maria Valley; David Bruce, Santa Cruz Mountains; Calera, Mt. Harlan; Chalone, Monterey County; Dehlinger, Russian River Valley; Domaine Drouhin, Williamette Valley; Etude, Carneros; Gary Farrell, Russian River Valley; Kistler, Russian River Valley; Rochioli, Russian River Valley; Saintsbury, Carneros; Sanford, Santa Ynez Valley; Williams Selyem, Russian River Valley
How to Serve Wine: Temperature, Breathing and Glasses
People ask me all the time, “does it really matter which glass you serve wine in?” And I tell them the same thing every time, “sure it does.” Nevertheless, I was at a restaurant the other day and was really surprised to find a Leonetti Merlot, from Washington and one of the best Merlot’s on the planet, on the wine list. So I ordered it, and you know what? They served it in their plain, small, thick-rimmed glasses with the name of the restaurant branded on them. And this is a restaurant with a great wine list. Clearly, some folks don’t think glasses matter. Restaurants also commonly store and serve wines too warm. C’est la vie.
On the flip-side, some wine experts and enthusiasts would have you sticking a thermometer in the wine before you drink it. Being somewhat analytical but practical as well, I guess I’m somewhere in between. So here’s my practical guide to serving wine. Temperature, breathing and glasses all have one thing in common. They relate significantly to the wine’s scent or bouquet. Look, this is simple. You taste mostly through your sense of smell. So to the extent these three factors relate to the wine’s scent, they are a factor.
Taking Wine’s Temperature
First, let’s tackle temperature. The old adage says that you serve whites chilled and reds at room temperature. Well, that’s pretty close, but there’s a bit more to it than that. If you serve whites too cold, you slow down the molecules, they become less volatile and the wine’s scent is reduced. As a result, the wine’s flavor will be reduced. That’s a fact.
To my pallet, cellar temperature, or 55 degrees or so is the warmest white wine should be served, and whatever temperature your fridge is at, as long as it’s not super cold, is probably okay on the low end. But if wine is poured straight from the fridge, I like to warm the glass in my hands a bit while drinking it; it helps to excite those molecules.
As for reds, the old adage is fine, except for one thing. Room temperature in France, back in the days before central heating, was considered to be in the mid-to-upper 50s. That temperature tastes about right to me. When I open a bottle of red from my wine cellar (it’s actually not a cellar but a converted sauna, but it is temperature controlled), here’s my routine. If it’s just for my wife and me, I typically pour each of us a glass and then put the bottle outside on the deck on cool nights. It’s just a few feet away from our kitchen and dining room. If it’s warm out, I put the bottle back in the cellar, which is also not too far away. You can even put it in a wine bucket or the fridge, but don’t leave it in too long, since the optimum temperature is in the 50s, not the 30s. If there are more than two people drinking, I just leave the bottle out; it tends to get drunk fast enough. If it’s the second bottle or beyond, you can put it anywhere you want and I guarantee you, nobody will notice its temperature.
Breathing Life into Wine
Temperature is relatively straightforward, but the breathing thing still shocks me to this day. Wine ages in the bottle primarily because there’s a little air in the bottle that causes chemical reactions to occur among various compounds in the wine. Guess what happens when you open the bottle and either decant the wine or pour it into glasses? That’s right; the wine comes into contact with lots of air. So, in a way, you can think of breathing as accelerated aging. As a result, the wine “opens up” and its character can change fairly rapidly and quite dramatically, in fact. Just the other day we opened a ’95 Lancaster Reserve – the first year this Meritage was ever produced. When I open a bottle I like to pour a bit into glasses just to taste it right away. The Lancaster was quite acidic at first and, although it had aged for 9 years, it tasted young right out of the bottle. But as we tasted it over the next hour or so, the wine really opened up and settled into a more rich and textured body with layers of fruit and tannins that had been mellowed by age. The difference was amazing.
Some people open sweet Rieslings a day in advance, but I admit that I’ve never thought that far ahead. You can do that, of course, because all the sugar in a sweet Riesling keeps the wine from fermenting and turning into vinegar. As for decanting, that just increases the surface area in contact with air, so the wine opens up faster. Again, accelerated aging. I typically decant fine wines, but I’m not sure if I do that for practical reasons or for effect. I guess it’s kind of fun. But some people say that young wines benefit more from decanting than old wines that have already had plenty of time to age in the bottle. Just pouring some wine into large glasses and leaving the rest in the bottle has almost the same effect as decanting; you’re just decanting the wine into glasses, instead. However, I think opening the bottle and just letting it sit there is silly … the surface area of the wine that comes into contact with air is no different than when the wine was sitting in the bottle for years. I guess the best thing is to try it a few different ways and decide what works for you. The bottom line: once you’ve opened a bottle of wine, putting the cork back in is like trying to put the Genie back in the bottle. You just can’t do it. Just leave the cork out. That goes for reds as well as whites, which open up too.
What’s in a Glass?
How about glasses? Do they really matter? Yes. Bigger glasses have more surface area and allow your nose to access the wine’s scent more readily. They also allow you to more easily swirl the wine in the glass, which also enhances the wine’s scent. Remember, you can’t taste the various flavors of the wine without your sense of smell, so this is all pretty scientific. Drink reds in bigger glasses and whites in smaller ones. Bigger glasses also help the wine to open up, just as we discussed earlier. Get some nice machine made Reidel glasses from The Wine Club at discount prices. You can even put them in the dishwasher and they have a nice, clean edge. They’re really cool looking, too. Forget crystal. As for the fact that Reidel has a different glass for each varietal, well, that’s your call. I would at least get the red Bordeaux glasses (for Cab and Merlot), the Pinot Noir or red Burgundy glasses (they’re a much different shape than the Bordeaux glasses) and the Chardonnay or white Burgundy glasses. You can use the Chard glasses for all your whites, and then use the red Bordeaux glasses for other red varietals. That’s only three sets … it won’t break you. If that’s too much, forget the red Burgundy glasses. There ya go.
Finally, if any of this gets too serious for you, forget it. Just open the bottle and drink it. But don’t forget to breathe. Cheers.
Tobak’s Monthly Picks
Wines (you guessed it, all US Pinots)
Acacia. The Carneros Pinot Noir is great for around $20. The single-vineyard designated Pinot’s are mostly great, but expensive, around $50. I like the Beckstoffer – powerful stuff. FYI, Acacia’s part of the Chalone wine group.
Archery Summit and Saintsbury. We discussed these fine Pinots in the January issue.
Au Bon Climat. The best is from the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, but the other Pinots are excellent too. Famed wine-maker Jim Clendenen actually believes in pricing his wines reasonably. You gotta love that.
David Bruce. An early Pinot Noir pioneer in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Vineyard designated Pinots from the Russian River Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains are his best widely distributed wines, priced in the mid-to-upper $20s. He makes some more basic Pinots at better prices, as well: the Sonoma, in the upper teens and Central Coast, in the lower teens, I believe. He also has a reserve Santa Cruz Mountains bottling that’s very pricy ($50) and available only at the winery.
Calera. From Mt. Harlan in San Benito County, wherever that is. One of the great Pinot makers, Selleck and Jensen Vineyards are the best, but Reed is also very good. They’re all very pricy ($40~60). The Mills vineyard is good too, but maybe overpriced. There’s also a Central Coast version that’s moderately priced for the masses.
Chalone. Good Monterey County Pinot at $20, overpriced at the list price of $26.
Dehlinger. Great Russian River Valley Pinots, several vineyard designations, all hard to find, but all the ones I’ve had are great. If you find some, buy two bottles, drink one and send me the other.
Domaine Drouhin. One of America’s great Pinots from Williamette Valley. The land was purchased by Robert Drouhin of France and the wines are made by his daughter Veronique. She makes two Pinots, the standard Pinot Noir which is great for around the low $30s and Laurene which is great for around the low $40s. I used to buy Laurene, but now I think I like the regular Pinot just as much.
Etude. Great Carneros producer. Hard to find Pinot, but just one kind that I know of. It goes for like $40 or so, if you can find it.
Gary Farrell. Famous Russian River Valley Pinot innovator. Allen and Rochioli vineyard Pinots are his best and maybe worth it, but the plain Russian River Valley stuff is overpriced, in my opinion.
Kistler. From Russian River Valley. His Chardonnays are ridiculously expensive but worth it, but his Pinots are experiencing a feeding frenzy these days, going for at least $100+, even the most widely produced Sonoma Coast ones. Crazy. If you can get on his mailing list you can get them for $60-70ish, and I love em, but they’re still pretty pricy.
Rochioli. Great Russian River Valley producer. His Pinots are also experiencing a feeding frenzy, going for $100+, even the Russian River Valley estate version. This is all based on the acclaim of their vineyard designated Pinots: West Block, East Block, Riverside Block, etc. Also makes one you can drink young called ??? But here’s a secret: Just call the winery and order by phone – they’ll limit your quantity to like 4 bottles of the estate only, and you have to do it around release time before they sell out, but you’ll only pay list price, which is around the upper $30s. A real bargain. 707-433-2305. And while you’re paying thru the nose for shipping, pick up their Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, too.
Williams Selyem. Various vineyard designated Pinots, such as Rochioli and Allen, are excellent but perhaps overpriced (>$100). The Russian River Valley Pinot is also very good and closer to reality, but still pricy.
Winery
Pine Ridge Winery, Napa, California. Napa is full of big-name, big-production wineries like Beaulieu, Beringer, Mondavi, Niebaum Coppola and Stag’s Leap. I would pretty much steer clear of them. Don’t get me wrong, each one of these wineries makes some great wine … and you’ll pay for them, too But they make lots of not-so-great wine too, and frankly, there’s just nothing too exciting or unique about them. On the other hand, Napa is also loaded with wineries that make excellent, reasonably priced, distinctive wines, and those are the ones that I think you’ll find most rewarding to focus on. Names like Chateau Montelena, Duckhorn, Etude, Grgich Hills, Flora Springs, Merryvale, Schaeffer, St. Clement and, of course, Pine Ridge.
I’m a member of Pine Ridge’s club because everything they make is great. They also own Archery Summit, so you get great Oregon Pinots if you’re a member of the club, as well. They make three Cabernets: Howell Mountain, Stags Leap, and Rutherford, which is less expensive than the other two but almost as good. There’s also the flagship Bordeaux blend Andrus Reserve that’s awesome. Pine Ridge makes two equally great Merlots, Crimson Creek and Carneros, that are well priced around $20. There’s also a good Dijon Clones Chardonnay for around $20 and a great Stags Leap Chardonnay that’s pricier and harder to find but worth it. There’s also this really cool Chenin Blanc / Viognier blend for around $8. Pine Ridge makes other limited production wines under the name of Epitome (Chardonnay and Cab), as well as Onyx, a Malbec blend. You’ve got to check them out when you’re in Napa. www.pineridgewinery.com
Merchant
Beltramo’s 650.325.2806 1540 El Camino Real, Menlo Park, CA. Huge brick and mortar shop with great selection of fine and hard-to-get wines, including lots of vineyard designated and reserve wines I recommend here. Their prices are just a tad bit higher than K&L Wine Merchants and The Wine Club, but their red tag specials are on par with those two excellent discount retailers, and they often have wines that you just can’t find at the other two. In addition to US, excellent selection of French and Italian wines, as well as other countries. If you want to compare, K&L is a mile or so down the road.
Resources
Sonoma County Wineries. I especially like the alphabetical listing of all wineries, as opposed to the lists of wineries they happen to be promoting for whatever reason. In any case, this is a great resource for planning a trip to Sonoma County wine country. It tells you which wineries are open for tasting, including days and times, and provides phone numbers for making appointments for those that require it. Here’s a hint: some of the best wineries are not open to the public for tasting, but they’re happy to make an appointment. In those situations, you’re likely to meet the winemaker and perhaps even taste from a barrel or two … it’s a blast. Sonoma’s a really laid back place with some of the world’s great wines, so don’t miss it. www.sonoma.com/wineries/
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